We describe experiments on learning latent variable grammars for various German tree-banks, using a language-agnostic statistical approach. In our method, a minimal initial grammar is hierarchically refined using an adaptive split-and-merge EM procedure, giving compact, accurate grammars. The learning procedure directly maximizes the likelihood of the training treebank, without the use of any language specific or linguistically constrained features. Nonetheless, the resulting grammars encode many linguistically interpretable patterns and give the best published parsing accuracies on three German treebanks.